What type of rubber is best for climbing shoes?

The type of rubber used on climbing shoe soles matters a lot for grip and edging ability. After trying shoes from all the major climbing brands, I’ve found that Vibram and Stealth rubber tend to offer the best combination of friction, sensitivity, and durability.

Vibram is an Italian company that produces a range of proprietary rubber compounds for climbing shoes, including XS Edge, XS Grip2, and others. I’ve consistently had good experiences with their rubbers over the years.

Five Ten uses their own Stealth rubber on shoes like the Anasazi. Their sticky C4 formula provides amazing grip on a variety of rock types, especially soft sedimentary climbs like sandstone. You can trust Five Ten shoes to keep you stuck to the wall.

Some companies like Evolv use their own branded rubber instead of Vibram or Stealth. Their VTR rubber performs respectably well in my experience, providing decent edging ability at a lower price point.

When buying new shoes, I always check what type of rubber is used on the sole. Premium compounds like Vibram XS Grip or Stealth C4 tell me those shoes will stick to tiny holds with no problem!

How much do top climbing shoes cost?

The price range for high-end climbing shoes designed for advanced climbers and competitors tends to run from about $180 up to $200+. Of course you can find shoes at lower prices, but truly top-tier high performance shoes will cost you a decent chunk of change (>$200).

Why the hefty price tags? These elite shoes tend to use advanced patented rubber compounds, asymmetric shapes, anti-stretch technology, and other innovations that cost more to produce. They may also be handmade in smaller batches.

While beginner and intermediate climbers probably don’t need the most expensive options, dedicated climbers pushing hard routes may find the high cost worth it for the performance benefits.

Of course you can get high-quality shoes for lower prices too. Many great $100-150 options exist. But if money is no object in your quest for a high-performing shoe, expect to pay around $180 to $200+ from premium brands.

Should my climbing shoes be painful?

This is a tricky question that depends a lot on your experience level and climbing style. For some elite climbers, a painfully tight and downturned shoe helps them climb at their limit on overhung routes. But for many beginner and intermediate climbers, overly painful shoes will hinder progress and enjoyment.

A good rule of thumb I follow is that your toes should feel snug in a new pair of shoes, allowing them to curl naturally, but not be brutally crushed in pain. As you break in the shoes, they will stretch and feel more comfortable while still maintaining a performance fit.

I also recommend removing your shoes between climbs to allow your feet to rest and reduce pain. Only the most advanced climbers tend to keep their painful shoes on continuously.

Don’t rush into buying the most aggressive shoes unless you really plan to climb challenging routes and push grades soon. Prioritize an overall comfortable feel that doesn’t kill your toes during your sessions. Your climbing will benefit more from shoes that don’t distract you with pain.

How tight should my climbing shoes be?

Finding the ideal tightness and getting the sizing right for your new climbing shoes is so important for both performance and avoiding injury. I’ve learned a few tips over the years:

• Your toes should curl naturally in the shoes but not be ramrod straight or painfully crunched.
• When standing, your toes should lightly press against the front of the shoe. Not crushing them, but eliminating dead space.
• Consider sizing down 0.5 to 1 full size from your street shoe size to achieve a performance fit.
• Lace-up or velcro models allow you to tweak tightness as the shoes break in.
• Take them off between climbs to let your feet rest when possible.
• Expect the shoes to stretch a bit as you break them in over those first few weeks.
• For crack climbing, err on the slightly looser side for comfort jamming all day.

It takes some trial and error to find your ideal tightness. Resist the urge to buy shoes that are excruciatingly tight if you’re a beginner. A snug fit that doesn’t cut off circulation or crunch your toes horribly is a good starting point.

How long do climbing shoes last?

The lifespan of your climbing shoes will vary considerably depending on how frequently you climb and the type of shoe. After going through many pairs over the years, I estimate most climbers can expect around 6 months to 1 year of use before it’s time to resole or retire them.

Heavier climbers and those who climb very frequently will wear out their shoes faster as the rubbersole gets ground down. Using the shoes indoors also seems to degrade them quicker than climbing outdoors.

Leather shoes will stretch progressively with use and eventually downgrade in performance after several months. Synthetic and synthetic blends hold their shape better over time.

Taking good care of your shoes with resoles, brushing, and avoiding excess moisture will help extend their usable lifespan before degradation sets in.

For the average gym goer or weekend warrior climbing 1-2 times per week, I think most quality shoes should last around a year before needing replacement. Just inspect your shoes periodically and look for areas of the sole and rand wearing thin, which signals retirement time is coming soon!

How much do resoles cost?

Instead of buying brand new shoes when your sole wears thin, getting them resoled is a great way to save money and extend their life. But how much does resole service cost?

In my experience, resoling climbing shoes costs $40-$60 on average depending on the cobbler. Simple resoling starts around $40-50 for basic materials. Fancier options with sticky rubber or vibram can run closer to $60. Resoling aggressive high-end shoes tends to be more expensive.

Check if your local climbing gym offers resoles on-site to save you the hassle of mailing them away. Many gyms provide this service for members.

The turnaround time for resoling is typically 1 to 2 weeks including shipping both ways. Make sure to ask your local cobbler about current lead times when dropping off your shoes so you know when to expect them back.

While the cost may seem high, resoling still saves a lot of money compared to replacing your shoes with a brand new $150+ pair! Even just one resole can extend their life significantly.

What shoes do professional climbers use?

When it comes to high-level professional climbers and competition climbers, it’s all about pushing the limits of performance. Most of them rely on extremely aggressive downturned shoes from premium brands.

Here are some of the shoes commonly used today by pro climbers:

• La Sportiva Solution – Tommy Caldwell, Adam Ondra
• La Sportiva Futura – Alex Honnold
• Five Ten HiAngle – Ashima Shiraishi
• Five Ten Anasazi Pro – Alex Johnson
• Butora Acro – Daniel Woods
• Scarpa Drago – Stefano Ghisolfi

Many pro climbers go through shoes frequently, trying the newest high-end models every season looking for any incremental advantage.

While you certainly don’t need pro-level shoes as a beginner, it’s interesting to see what the top climbers choose for pushing grades. The extreme asymmetry and tight fits help them reach peak performance.

Should I buy shoes online or in store?

I always recommend trying on and buying your first pair of climbing shoes in-person at an outdoor gear store rather than online. Why? Getting the fit and sizing dialed in correctly is so important for both performance and comfort.

Trying on the actual shoes before buying lets you find the right size based on each company’s unique fit, rather than just guessing your size and ordering online. The ability to test different sizes right there in the store is invaluable.

On top of fit, chatting with an experienced salesperson about your specific needs and foot shape can help guide you to the best options. Their expertise really helps make the process easier for newer climbers.

Once you know the size and models that work well for your feet, feel free to order subsequent pairs online to save time and money. Just be wary of major changes between different versions of shoes from the same brand.

How do I stretch tight climbing shoes?

Brand new aggressive climbing shoes often feel excruciatingly tight at first. While you want a performance fit, excessively painful shoes can hinder your climbing and be unbearable. Here are a few tips for stretching and breaking in snug shoes to get the fit dialed in just right:

• Wear them at home for short non-climbing periods to gently stretch the shape.
• Use a shoe stretcher tool to target specific tight areas.
• Try lightly stuffing the toes with socks overnight to stretch the length.
• Heat the edges with a hairdryer and gently press outwards.
• Soak the whole shoe in warm water then wear until dry.
• Climb easy routes focusing on precise footwork.
• Consider sizing up 0.5 to 1 full size from your street shoe size.

There’s some trial and error involved. Don’t rush the break-in period. Letting your shoes stretch gradually will improve comfort while still retaining a performance fit. Just resist excessive stretching or the shoes may become too sloppy.