The best bouldering shoes reviewed (suitable for all levels)

Rock climbing is one of my favorite hobbies. I absolutely love the feeling of pulling myself up a sheer rock face using nothing but my hands, feet, and a bit of technical gear. But without the right climbing shoes, sending that next challenging route would be nearly impossible.

Over my years of climbing, I’ve worn many different shoes and learned a lot about what features make for an excellent climbing shoe. Now I want to share my first-hand knowledge and recommendations with you!

In this blog post, I’ll cover the 10 best climbing shoes on the market in 2023 in my opinion. I’ve included top picks for bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, crack climbing, and more based on my personal experience using them.

Let’s get started!

Our top 10 picks

These are out top 10 picks for the best climbing shoes in the current market.

How to Choose Climbing Shoes

Choosing the right climbing shoes for your needs is really important. The wrong pair can hinder your performance or even cause injuries over time.

Here are some key factors I consider when shopping for new shoes:

  • Type of climbing – Shoes are designed for specific disciplines like bouldering, sport climbing, or trad climbing. Consider what you’ll use the shoes for most when deciding.
  • Fit – The shoes should fit snugly but not cut off circulation or crush your toes. When new, your toes should naturally curl but not be painfully crunched.
  • Level – Less advanced climbers need a more comfortable, forgiving beginner shoe. Intermediate and advanced climbers can handle more aggressive high-performance shoes.
  • Shape of foot – Those with wide feet should look for appropriately wider shoes. High arches need arch support. Consider any unique aspects of your feet.
  • Frequency of use – Climb more than twice per week? Go for a higher quality shoe. If you only climb occasionally, an affordable beginner shoe will likely do.

Now let’s get to the shoes! For each one, I’ll overview the key features, pros, cons, and who the shoe is best suited for based on my personal testing and impressions.

The La Sportiva Tarantulace is arguably the most popular neutral beginner climbing shoe available. As a high quality entry-level model, it’s a great first real pair of shoes for newer climbers.

Key Features:

  • Neutral shape good for beginners
  • Lorica synthetic leather upper
  • Lace-up closure for adjustability
  • FriXion RS rubber sole

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

The Tarantulace is ideal as a first shoe for beginner to intermediate gym or outdoor climbers. The comfort and adjustability make them great for all day wear. More advanced climbers will likely want something more aggressive and downturned.

pros

cons

  • Excellent value for the price
  • Comfortable enough to wear all day at the crag without pain
  • Stiff sole provides good edging support
  • Lace-up allows you to adjust and tweak the tightness
  • Not as high performance as more advanced aggressive shoes
  • Sizing can run slightly small

The Evolv Ashima strikes a nice balance as a moderately downturned shoe for newer climbers looking to advance beyond a purely neutral beginner model. While not the most advanced design, it performs well for vertical to slightly overhanging climbs.

Key Features:

  • Moderately downturned asymmetrical shape
  • Breathable microfiber upper
  • Velcro strap closure
  • 4.2mm VTR sole

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

The Defy is a great choice for climbers transitioning from neutral beginner shoes to a more aggressive downturned shape. It will perform well in the gym and on vertical sport climbs. More advanced climbers will likely want something more downturned and asymmetric.

pros

cons

  • Comfortable enough for multi-pitch traditional routes
  • Good grip and sensitivity from the VTR rubber sole
  • Nice quality for the reasonable price point
  • Single velcro strap is easy to tighten and adjust
  • Not ideal for super steep overhung routes
  • Sizing runs slightly large in my opinion

The La Sportiva Mythos is a legendary neutral shoe beloved by many climbers for its unmatched all-day comfort and versatility. This highly versatile shoe works great for climbing slabs, cracks, and vertical terrain.

Key Features:

  • Fully flat shape with ample toe room
  • Buttery soft leather upper that molds to your foot
  • Lace-up closure for adjustability
  • Vibram XS Edge rubber sole

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

From the gym to the crag, the Mythos is perfect for climbers who prioritize all-day comfort and footwork precision over aggression. The flat shape truly excels on slabs and cracks.

 

pros

cons

  • Extremely soft and comfortable leather upper, good for all day wear
  • Excellent precision and footwork ability on slabs and cracks
  • Lace-up closure lets you fully customize the fit
  • Trusted Vibram XS Edge rubber sole
  • Less powerful on severely overhung juggy routes
  • The soft leather will stretch and downgrade over time

The Scarpa Instinct VS is regarded by many as one of the most aggressive downturned shoes available. The extreme asymmetry excels at toe and heel hooking on overhangs.

Key Features:

  • Highly downturned and asymmetrical shape
  • Vibram XS Grip2 rubber sole
  • Bi-tension rand system adds control
  • Split suede leather upper

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

For advanced climbers looking to push their grade and send their next project, the Instinct VS offers unmatched downturn and precision from toe to heel. Just be prepared for a painful break-in period. Those with wide feet should look elsewhere.

 

pros

cons

  • Precise toe-hooking ability
  • Excellent power and tension on overhangs
  • Very stiff midsole for edging small chips
  • Bi-tension rands provide precision and control
  • Not great for wider feet
  • Can be painfully uncomfortable for all day multi-pitch wears
  • Sizing often runs small

The legendary La Sportiva Solution changed the game as one of the first super aggressive curved shoes. 20 years later, it remains a favorite high-performance shoe for hard sport climbing.

Key Features:

  • Extreme asymmetry and downturn for hooks/heels
  • Vibram XS Grip3 rubber sole
  • Lined leather upper molds nicely
  • Lace-up closure for adjustability

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

La Sportiva designed the Solution specifically with sport climbing in mind. The extreme downturn and stiff midsole excel on overhangs and competition walls. Laces provide a customizable fit. Experienced climbers pushing their limit love this shoe.

pros

cons

  • Unparalleled precision on micro edges and footholds
  • Very stiff midsole for standing on small chips
  • Lined leather upper broken-in fits like a glove
  • Lace-up allows you to tweak the tightness
  • Not ideal for all day multi-pitch comfort
  • Toe box is quite narrow and tight
  • Expensive but worth it in my opinion

As a high-performance beginner’s shoe, the Scarpa Origin gets my vote for the best entry-level model currently available. The moderate asymmetry helps intermediate climbers transition into a more aggressive downturn.

Key Features:

  • Moderately downturned asymmetrical shape
  • Vibram XS Edge rubber sole
  • Synthetic leather upper
  • Double velcro straps for fit

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

Scarpa designed the Origin specifically as a second shoe for climbers with 6 months to 1 year of experience looking to advance beyond a neutral flat beginner model. The moderate downturn and velcro straps offer a significant performance boost over entry-level shoes.

 

pros

cons

  • Aggressive enough for vertical climbs
  • Comfortable for both gym and outdoor use
  • Excellent quality for a very reasonable price point
  • Double velcro straps distribute tension nicely
  • Not the most advanced design for elite climbing
  • Runs around a half size small in my experience

Five Ten designed the Rogue VCS specifically for jamming and stemming traditional crack climbs. The soft upper conforms inside cracks while the Stealth C4 rubber sticks to smears and edging with ease.

Key Features:

  • Soft full-grain leather upper
  • Medium asymmetry for balance
  • 4.2mm Stealth C4 rubber sole
  • Lace-up closure for customization

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

For traditional crack climbing and face climbing balance, Five Ten nailed it with the Rogue VCS. The soft upper handles cracks of all sizes while the sticky C4 rubber tackles slab scrambling. An excellent all-around traditional shoe.

pros

cons

  • The leather upper excels for squeezing into cracks
  • Trusted Stealth C4 rubber provides excellent grip on rock
  • Moderate downturn works well for face climbing too
  • Laces let you really dial in the perfect fit
  • The soft leather will eventually stretch and downgrade
  • Lacks extreme asymmetry like modern designs

The Scarpa Crux is a legendary crack climbing shoe trusted by trad climbers for decades. The soft leather upper and moderate downturn provide excellent comfort and versatility for long climbs.

Key Features:

  • Soft suede leather upper
  • Moderate downturn and asymmetry
  • Vibram XS Grip2 sole
  • Lace-up closure

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

For fingertip hand cracks, the Crux is extremely hard to beat. The soft leather conforms nicely to thin fissures while the laces secure just the right snug fit. An excellent high-quality all-around traditional shoe.

pros

cons

  • Extremely soft and comfortable leather upper
  • Moderate downturn works well for face climbing too
  • Lace-up closure lets you customize the fit
  • Trusted Vibram XS Grip2 sole for grip
  • The Vibram rubber is not as advanced as modern options
  • The soft leather will eventually stretch and downgrade

The Evolv Shaman stands out as one of the widest fitting performance climbing shoes currently available. Despite the low asymmetry, it still allows for decent edging and hooking.

Key Features:

  • Roomy fit designed for wide feet
  • Low asymmetry for hooks and heels
  • 4mm VTR sole
  • Stretchy slipper-like knit upper

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

Finally, a high performing climbing shoe specifically built to accommodate wide feet comfortably! The Shaman fits wide feet very well without compromising much on the essentials.

pros

cons

  • The widest model that Evolv makes
  • Comfortable stretchy slipper feel
  • Excellent price point for the quality
  • Still hooks and edges reasonably well
  • Not ideal for climbers with narrower feet
  • Less powerful than very aggressive downturned shoes

Despite the aggressive downturn, the Skwama runs wider than most La Sportiva shoes. The innovative P3 rand helps prevent blowouts when sizing up.

Key Features:

  • Widish fit for an aggressive La Sportiva shoe
  • High asymmetry for heel/toe hooks
  • Vibram XS Grip2 sole
  • P3 rand system protects upper

Who This Shoe Is Perfect For:

While not their widest model, La Sportiva did design the Skwama to accommodate wider feet better than most of their shoes. The knit upper and P3 rand allow sizing up without as many issues. Size up more than your street shoe if you have a wide forefoot.

 

pros

cons

  • Stretchy knit upper material
  • Toe rand protects upper when sizing up
  • Excellent precision on small holds
  • La Sportiva quality and performance
  • Still not as wide as some other brands
  • Runs short in length so size up

Climbing Shoe Buying Guide-what to look out for

Now that you know some of the best climbing shoes available in 2023 based on my own experience and testing, how do you decide what might be right for your individual needs?

Here are some key factors to consider when shopping:

Type of Climbing

  • Bouldering – Prioritize sensitivity and tight fit with a downturned shape. Opt for velcro closures for easy on/off.
  • Sport climbing – Asymmetric downturn excels for clipping bolts and overhangs. Consider a lined leather model for comfort.
  • Trad climbing – Look for a flat or moderate shoe to excel on cracks and slabs. Unlined leather models often work well.
  • Gym climbing – A flat to moderate shoe offers versatility. Synthetics stretch less than leather.

Level of Climber

  • Beginner – Start with a comfortable neutral shoe with velcro. Focus on fit over performance.
  • Intermediate – Transition into a moderately downturned asymmetrical shoe. Consider leather.
  • Advanced – Size more aggressively and get a highly downturned high-performance shoe. Prioritize precision.

Frequency of Climbing

  • Occasional – Mid-range shoes ($100-$150) are ideal for 1-2 days per week.
  • Frequent – Invest in premium shoes ($150+) if climbing 3+ days per week. They’ll last longer.
  • Competition – Get the most aggressive high-end shoes you can handle for send days.

Budget

  • $ Beginner shoes $50-$100
  • $$ Intermediate shoes $100-$150
  • $$$ Advanced shoes $150+

Focus on fit and comfort over price. Don’t compromise much on shoe quality if climbing frequently. Cheaper beginner shoes can work well for infrequent climbers.

The bottom line

There are so many climbing shoes to consider. Therefore, think about how and where you climb most often. Be honest with yourself about your experience level. Determine your unique foot shape and any sizing quirks.

Most importantly, get properly fitted in person by an experienced salesperson at your local gear shop. Don’t just order shoes online without trying them on first!

Climbing shoes are the most critical piece of gear. Investing in the right pair makes sending and climbing more enjoyable. With my in-depth reviews and buying advice above, you now have the knowledge to choose shoes that will empower your climbing goals this year! Let me know in the comments if you have any other questions.